adidas Y-3: The Next Generation of the Sneaker Heel
Y-3, is a Yohji Yamamoto adidas off-shoot line that offers sporty yet sleek and stylish apparel, footwear and accessories. Since the Y-3 line debuted in 2003, Yamamoto and his team have rarely misstepped in fusing his over-sized, avant-garde silhouettes with athletic elements and materials. However when the 2010 Fall/Winter footwear line launched, a few of the items in the women's line left me both confused and a little disappointed.
Making a high heel comfortable and fashion forward is the holy grail of the design world. Most women will pick one or the other, as rarely does the style of Christian Louboutin come with the cushioning from performance footwear like the Nike Air Max 95. The sneaker heel, a hybrid shoe we've seen before but they usually end up looking cheap and not modern. Y-3 came out with two models of sneaker heels for the Fall/Winter season for women: the Torsion Heel and the Cushion Wedge.
The first thought I had when I saw the Torsion Heel was how similar it looked compared to the Balenciaga "Lego" heel from 2008. Not necessarily in styling or design but the overall concept and elements. Both used bright colour blocking, mesh and a skinny stiletto heel. A major difference between the two is that the Balenciaga shoe went completely over-board but still looked like it was true to futuristic, chunky aesthetic that Nicolas Ghesquire, Balenciaga's womenswear designer, is known for doing for the house every season. While the Y-3 looks almost looks cheap in comparison. The coloured patent leather looks dated and not futuristic and the mesh seems ill-placed. Perhaps if was on the toe box it would be less jarring. The curves of the different materials also seems odd, stronger shapes may have made the shoe more striking. The red toe box almost looks more Ronald McDonald-esque and not something that a futuristic femme fatale, like Daryl Hannah in Blade Runner, would wear. But, the shape of the heel with the slight wedge near the base of the foot is a welcome trend that we've seen with other designers like Alexander Wang.
As for the technology of the shoe, the adidas Y-3 store explains every element that went into the shoe. The shoe's constructed from a mix of patent leather, full-grain leather, mesh, pig skin and canvas. It utilises adidas "adiPRENE" in the EVA midsole, a "technology for premium cushioning and shock absorption". Lyrca forefoot inserts adapt to help avoid high heels stumbles.The heel itself, a cause for many tough calluses, uses "Torsion". It's a system that can allow the front and back of the foot to move independent, which adds stability. All these elements seem very interesting to a girl who lives in either 4 inch heels or sneakers, but does it all add up? Will I be able to stand for long periods of time without fatigue? Is it actually comfortable like a sneaker? A well made shoe with the right leather and fit for your shape of foot (not all designers will fit you the same), can translate to wearing heels for long periods of time, even after a few after hours beverages. With so much technology, how much is too much and does it really justifies the $450 USD price tag? This shoe must be test strutted in person for the final verdict. But in press photographs, it falls flat as just another shiny shoe that doesn't scream the next wave of fashion and technology.
The Y-3 Cushion Wedge didn't strike me as anything new either. I'm a fan of the black model, but it would lend itself better to sleek, lean silhouette, as they cut quite high above the ankle. The silver model from the 2010 Fall/Winter runway show though looks too shiny and overdone. The different cutouts of red and purple seem almost too abstract, while the adidas lines on the sole are so exact, that it's too odd to work together. Perhaps if the sneaker part was all silver, with touches of the red and purple just on the wedge, laces and lining, it would present a stronger, more futuristic appearance. The Cushion Wedge uses much of the same intelligent design as the Torsion Heel but instead, as the name suggests borrows from adidas cushioning to make a comfortable "fashion forward" model. It retails for $410 USD. The sneaker wedge is something that comes and goes in fashion often, and while this doesn't reinvent the idea, I would be interested to see if can bring a new world of comfort to the game.
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I have harsh words for both models, but only because Y-3 is generally so meticulous yet unique in everything that's churned out. For example, check out the new short film for the 2010 Fall/Winter collection. It's dark, brooding and stars a sports star that's known for his style and now, modelling - Zinedine Zidane. It really embodies the Y-3 spirit that is functional, fashionable but also, incredibly mysterious and layered.
I'm hoping for stronger, but even more forward thinking shoe selection for the ladies for the 2011 Spring/Summer season. Perhaps we will a tweaked silhouette, new materials and likely, a new colour scheme that could really re-inspire these current models. What do you think of the Y-3 sneaker heels for women? Would you wear them? Are they worth the sticker price? Let me know what you think here or tweet me.
Merchandising The Decision: Miami Love
It was only three weeks ago that LeBron James let the world exhale and learn of his Decision that he would be taking his talents from his home state of Ohio, to the sunny shores of South Beach. The reaction ranged from bliss to confusion to down right rage. While LeBron strutted and celebrated with his old friends, and now new teammates Chris Bosh and Dwyane Wade in his Miami Heat jersey, licensed apparel from the franchise wasn't the only thing that commemorated the move. There has been plenty of defamatory, mad and jilted t-shirts to go along with the burning Cavaliers jerseys and Comic Sans letters from those drinking the James Haterade. But there are a few brands that are embracing the new but not yet officially nicknamed, Miami Heat trio.
The Freshnes, is a streetwear brand based in Long Beach that began in 2007. They're primarily a t-shirt brand that often references basketball, hip hop, and sneaker culture in their gear. I've been a fan of their work in the past, especially this Jay-Z one meant for true Roc fans and a Jesus Shuttlesworth tee that pays adequate homage to one of my favorite films of all time, that this girl would love in a women's cut.
For the LeBron mania, they cranked out three tees to celebrate. The first tee directly quotes the words that broke Dan Gilbert, and arguably many NBA fan's hearts. I think the font is great and just big enough. While I don't agree with LeBron being a self-appointed "King" signing it King James is perfect in this instance.
LeBron announced earlier in the year that he would stop wearing his #23 jersey, out of a respect to his Airness, Michael Jordan. He picked #6, his team USA jersey, and as he moved to the Miami Heat, he plucked it from point guard Mario Chalmers. Sorry, kid but what BronBron wants, he gets! It uses the Heat current number font and the signature king's crown and the King James' Freshnes signature. This could be worn by a Heat fan or maybe by a non-LeBron fan poking fun at the King.
The last tee dedicated to BronBron is the most graphically complex of the bunch and plays on the branding that Nike has done with LeBron since he began his career. They used lions in one of the first LeBron photo shoots when he landed with Nike, and continue to use the lion's head image on his sneakers and other apparel. The King playing card with the ferocious lion looks great. While it wouldn't work well on women (flatten out the chest, makes a curvy figure look boxy), it would be a great item for a hardcore LeBron fan.
A local Miami-bred brand, Purple Heart Clothing, also jumped on the Heat trio bandwagon but they sided more with the established South Beach boy, Dwyane Wade. Purple Heart's aptly coined Miami-Wade County tee on ESPN. It's smart and clean, unlike what most people think of "Miami style". Also, the tee is available for ladies as well cashing in on the female basketball fan who doesn't always want to wear a jersey in sweltering Miami heat (oops, sorry).
The 3 Kings nickname is one of the simplest, but I'm not sure it will stay for the long in MIA. Will King James allow the others onto his trademarked court? We'll have to see. It's easier to say than the 3 Mi-Egos (cheesy) and I prefer the Miami Thrice, but we'll see. The use of the Heat font is clean and the script is tattoo inspired, something that the King and his court know a little about.
The last item is a limited edition tee strictly for D-Wade and his return to the team that won him an NBA championship ring. D-Wade didn't leave the Miami-Dade county waiting (I can't assume, but I don't think many Heat fans exist out of the 305 area code) and the first of July was an exciting day for the city. This tee commemorates the day that Wade put the Pat Riley action plan in motion, July 1st 2010 and Wade's #3. The tee, like the rest of the Purple Heart Clothing line, is clean and well-laid out. However, it would be difficult for females to wear (like the King James tee). Right now Miami is D-Wade's city, but will it stay that way? Will LeBron steal the spotlight. Who knows, but for now, thanks to a ring and likely, a name that rhymes so well, it's Wade's world.
The most recent BronBron tee comes from New York City based brand, Undrcrwn. Known as "The Brand for Champions" Undrcrwn's focusses on sports influenced gear. The brand enjoys a cult following amongst basketball bloggers and fans alike for their smart, humorous graphics and jokes that only a true hoops head understands. Despite that they don't offer a women's line, I decided to order my favourite Shawn Kemp inspired tee and turn it into a dress. Their newest drop is dedicated to the King's new court of Miami. It mimics the popular jersey t-shirts by replacing "Heat" with "King", mimicking LeBron's me-first mentality. It's simple, effective and clean. It can be worn by both LeBron fans or haters or even basketball fans. The shirt is available starting July 26th in the UNDRCRWN online store in a limited run. Whatever happened to playing for the name on the front instead of the back? Perhaps LeBron needs his brand on both sides.
Would you buy any of this pro-BronBron and Miami Thrice Heat gear? I'll feature the best of the anti-LeBron gear shortly, but since there is so much out there, it's taking awhile to compile the best and worst of it. Let me know what you think here or tweet me. I'm sure as the season progresses, so will the cheers, jeers and snarky apparel. Is it basketball season yet?
Umbro: Fit for Fashion and Football
On Friday June 11th, the 2010 FIFA World Cup kicks off for the first time in Africa. The Republic of South Africa is playing host to 31 teams representing nations from six continents. The teams bring hopes, hype, dreams, fans, and more merchandise than anyone can collect. Endorsement deals for official game kits and gear reach obscene dollar amounts and often go between major heavyweights, Adidas and Nike. The companies try to outdo each other with technology and flash and not fit but one FIFA outfitter took a different approach to jersey design for this tournament.
Umbro, a recent Nike subsidiary, is an English-born and bred sportswear and equipment company with a strong history of tailoring. For the design of England's official World Cup kit, Umbro brought on Aitor Throup, whose obsession with anatomy and minimalist functional design make him a perfect fit with Umbro. The philosophy when production began was that the jersey should move with the athlete's body instead of just around or against the body. The use of shoulder darts, tiny air holes and a stretchy base layer fabric on the underarms makes for a more streamlined and flexible fit. This is not your recreational jersey - this kit belongs to a new generation of what Umbro calls "innovative performance technology and a classic tailoring aesthetic".
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Umbro did a great job documenting the design and construction process from multiple angles including feedback from England's national team. It's clear that the footballer are happy to be involved in the process as every equipment edge can help them on the pitch.
Besides Umbro's longstanding contract with the England national football (soccer) team, they also design kits for Ireland and Northern Ireland's squads as well as premier league team Manchester City and the participants of the FA Cup. Since only England qualified for the 2010 World Cup, Umbro decided to honor the history of the tournament in their own special way. They created the World Champions Collection that feature modern interpretations of the classic jerseys of the seven nations that have hoisted the World Cup trophy: Brazil, Italy, France, Germany, Uruguay, England, and Argentina. The jerseys include their own crests designed by artists from all sorts of backgrounds from their home champion countries. The crests explain football history, culture and spirit and use the heralded stars that only true champions can own. Umbro use their company mandate of opposing qualities, like modern tailoring and the world game with local flavour, in designing the entire World Champions Collection apparel line which includes t-shirts, jerseys, zip ups and socks.
The requisite ad campaign continues to draw from Umbro's love of modernized vintage aesthetic but also in this case, very sexy.In the 1960's, the Umbro advertisements for jerseys featured models in long jerseys worn as mini-dresses: it was cute, cheeky and different.
To bring back the idea from the archives, Umbro recruited famous and beautiful WAG's from every country represented (wives and girlfriends of footballers) to model the jerseys with socks, and nothing else besides sultry hair and make up. The result looks sexy without being slutty or derogatory - what woman hasn't stolen her man's jersey to prance around the apartment in? Men love it and women have done it since those first advertisements came out in the 1960's. The blogs have lit up in excitement thanks to the behind the scenes video and the line is now synonymous with beautiful women.
The line is available in select retailers around the world, and I was lucky to attend their only Toronto release at GotStyle Menswear. The store is known as a destination for men who crave made to measure suits and fun, modern clothes that don't feel too intimidating or over priced - men who want to look good without looking like they're trying too hard. Umbro and GotStyle make a perfect pair and Melissa and her team did a great job displaying the collection.
Football memorabilia, photographs, video displays, sewing supplies, cute girls in short jerseys and even an England jersey signed by Fabio Capello (that you can win!) adorn the King West boutique's floor. I slipped on my team's jersey, France (allez les Bleus!), and unfortunately, it's too big for my small but curvy frame. However, they fit men off all sizes great with the minimal but sleek tailoring - GotStyle media master Reggie models the Italian jersey in size 38.
The details on the Umbro line are outstanding yet understated but are best seen in person. GotStyle carries the zip ups, jerseys, t-shirts as well as basic tees emblazoned with your country's name and colours. Prices range from $40 for tees to $150 for zip-ups . Definitely one of the most stylish and original ways to rally support for your World Cup squad. Well played, Umbro. Let the fashionable football games begin!
Li-Ning: Original Expansion
The sneaker game is nothing but competitive. Most companies that seem to have their own brand identities, are really just subdivisions of sportswear empires. Converse became infamous teaming up rivals and friends Magic Johnson and Larry Bird for the still relevant Weapon sneaker. But now, Nike owns Converse, turning it more into a fashion brand with collaborations with American designer John Varvatos. Nike moved Dwyane Wade from Converse to Jordan Brand and taking away his signature shoe but making him the new main pitchman for the yearly Jordan release - this season the Jordan 2010. Adidas owns Puma, among other brands, so needless to say, it's hard to be a new independent brand in the conglomerate market place.
Li-Ning Company Limited, is a major "sports brand enterprise" from China, that covers development, research, distribution, manufacturing, marketing, and of course, design. The company focusses on apparel, footwear, accessories and sports equipment. They've tapped athletes for sponsorship at home and abroad including the NBA market and are focussing on global expansion and market share.
Their list of athletes includes the effervescent Baron Davis. Not only is Baron a great point guard, but a film director, an actor and a well-known fashion plate in the NBA. When Boom Dizzle where's something new, others take notice. His signature shoe, the BD Doom came out this season too much buzz and apparently a lot of on court questions from fellow players.
The logo for the shoe is without question, Baron himself - the Beardman, sporting his trademark homeless-chic beard. The shoe came in five different colour ways, all available for sale - something that major brands don't always offer. LeBron James plays almost nightly in a different colour and style of his LeBron Air Max VII, but very few are available for sale. Baron's sneaker offered customization with a variety of eyelets and lacing options. It also came with a vinyl figure, picking up on the collectible toy market that is so synonymous with street and sneaker collecting culture. The Beardman is also adorned on apparel like varsity jackets and tees. While it wasn't the prettiest shoe, it certainly makes a statement - something the company needed to do to assert itself amongst the big sportswear dogs.
Li-Ning has taken this success and propelled it into building their first store front in Portland, Oregon, where the brand's headquarters are state side. The flagship opened in January 2010 - not far from Nike's compound in Beaverton, Oregon. With the opening of the store, Champs Sports announced that Li-Ning will be in 80 stores by this summer. Recently, Li-Ning expanded the Portland store and it now spans 2,200 square feet. The company wanted to display more than just their basketball lines and show a full variety of products, especially indoor sports. The showroom and retail store originally opened at 850 square Clearly, the company is doing something right.
To really compete with Nike, they need to continue their interesting shoes with viral campaigns, giving consumers something different. As a sneaker fiend, I'm over seeing every Jordan shoe bastardized into a new fusion model. Seeing something new, and not a company that lives in the past trying to capitalize on old classics shows true innovation and fresh ideas. It's exciting to see what Li-Ning can bring and if they can continue recruit not only talented but interesting athletes, like Baron Davis and also Shaquille O'Neal, they can create a niche in the massive market. Bring on the Beardman.
Sean John and the NFL Draft: Tailored for Performance
The draft for professional sports leagues are hype machines. College-age kids parade in front of media and NFL staff like prized dogs; it's the most public job interview on the planet. While all leagues have something offer fans and athletes, the pure pageantry of the NFL Draft cannot be beat.
The event takes place in Radio City Music Hall, the grandest of stages, in the biggest American city "where dreams are made of, there's nothing you can't do" - New York City. These draftees are the nation's focus, some at the peak of their careers: it's their Hollywood moment - there's even a red carpet. These young men will sign contracts that most of us couldn't even fathom, from the dollar signs to the endorsements to the restrictions and ownerships on their lives. It's fitting that companies and stylists are clamouring to dress these future stars before they're whisked from collegiate stars to NFL starters, as the old cliché goes, it truly is the first day of the rest of their lives.
In the past, draftees have sometimes come correct, showing their flair or perhaps a swift mother's hand. Other looked like they're wearing old ill-fitting church suits and some were just trying a little too hard to impress. As much I want to see these young men shine, bad draft day outfits are what keep blogs going. But dressing properly for the occasion is something that all new employees of the NFL should learn as it can help them in their public and private reputation for years down the line. If the NFL added a style boot camp to the combine, I would be in sports heaven.
One brand decided to try to do their own version of a style boot camp coupled with a strong branding initiative - Sean John. It was announced in Women's Wear Daily, that the man they call Diddy's fashion brand would be dressing a number of top NFL prospects for the draft. Sean Combs' defined his company's work with the draftees as a "pre-draft tailoring experience" where they would be given a fine suit and the use of an in-house tailor and stylist at Sean John's 5th Avenue flagship store. Conversion Sports and Entertainment ran the event which also included a chauffeured Rolls Royce Phantom and a bevy of other goodies. From my last count, the Sean John roster included seven players, all first round draft picks. Diddy didn't get to go number one, but he did get arguably the best player in the draft in Nebraska's Ndamukong Suh who went second overall to the Detroit Lions. Other players included Eric Berry (#5), Russell Okung (#6), Joe Haden (#7), CJ Spiller (#9), Derrick Morgan (#16), Demaryius Thomas (#22) and Dan Williams (#26).
This initiative is a great look for Sean John for a number of reasons. They're reaching out to one of the most powerful and flush demographics in the United Sates - professional athletes. These players will be soon cashing in on their talent (and not their universities) and building brand loyalty could really pay off in the long run. Also, this is one of the first occasions for these college players to receive a gift in a public, grand scale without having to worry about jeopardizing their amateur status. Once they declare for the draft, everything is fair game. Sean John swooped in by telling the players that they were rewarding their fine play with a fine suit and showing them a slice of the good life. It's like equating NFL talent with what I'm sure Sean John hopes is NFL style. The other athletes, who perhaps turned down Sean John's invite, see their fellow draftees chauffeured in luxury and catered to by a media mogul may think twice about going to Sean John in the future. Look at all the Louis Vuitton and Beats by Dre in dressing rooms - could the Sean John suit be the new coveted item? Maybe not, but the attired athletes in their brand will exist in the archives for ages.
Down the line, Sean John could also tap into these young men for advertising as using athletes as the model and muse seems to becoming the norm in men's fashion. Cristiano Ronaldo stripped down for Emporio Armani, Tiger Woods was a Tag Heuer man - could Suh be the face of Sean John big and tall? It's not a far-fetched idea. Sean John is doing what their CEO does so well - network to improve his net worth. Diddy would never have come this far without friends and powerful connections - from the Notorious B.I.G. to Anna Wintour, the man makes his Rolodex spin with his connections and hard work. It's only fitting that he models his clothing line with the same work ethic. Sean John also used their blog and Twitter to feature vignettes and behind the scenes photos on the athletes on their Sean John experience. In the age of social media where so many players are taking to Twitter and becoming more accessible than ever, it's fitting to have Sean John let the fans into equation, without even giving them an invite.
Some friends who are more sports fans than fashion mavens asked why would these athletes who will soon be making first round money be wearing a brand that is more known downtown than uptown - isn't Sean John a lesser quality product? Although I agree that some of Sean John's suits are not as fashion forward as brands like Z Zegna, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, J. Lindberg, or Dior Homme, but are more standard American sportswear. Players that bring size and strength on their frame are not easy to fit into skinny cut suits from a high fashion house even with a tailor's help. Also, like most major fashion brands, Sean John licenses their product to a manufacturer that specializes in suit construction. Peerless Clothing has a factory in Montreal that cranks out 25,000 suits a week for brands like Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, DKNY, Chaps, Ralph Lauren, and of course, Sean John - all New York base brands. When you buy their suits, you're really paying for the name and styling and not their manufacturing and customization.
Finally, as a stylist, it's a bit disappointing to see a big company taking over the styling for so many young players who could be potential clients. However, I applaud their use of a tailor on site and suit customization. Buying off the rack will rarely work any man - not just professional athletes. It's worth the time and effort to have a suit to tailored so it fits to perfection than just spending all your money on just a name. Fit is the most important thing to keep in mind while shopping and is accessible at every price and size. Sean John may not offer such luxury to all shoppers, but a personal shopper and a tailor can turn their suit into your suit with a few tips and a little work. And while fashion disasters on draft day are memorable, it's nice to see these young men looking ready for their next big step - the contract and then finally, the playing field. Good luck, young fellas.