Merchandising The Decision: Miami Love
It was only three weeks ago that LeBron James let the world exhale and learn of his Decision that he would be taking his talents from his home state of Ohio, to the sunny shores of South Beach. The reaction ranged from bliss to confusion to down right rage. While LeBron strutted and celebrated with his old friends, and now new teammates Chris Bosh and Dwyane Wade in his Miami Heat jersey, licensed apparel from the franchise wasn't the only thing that commemorated the move. There has been plenty of defamatory, mad and jilted t-shirts to go along with the burning Cavaliers jerseys and Comic Sans letters from those drinking the James Haterade. But there are a few brands that are embracing the new but not yet officially nicknamed, Miami Heat trio.
The Freshnes, is a streetwear brand based in Long Beach that began in 2007. They're primarily a t-shirt brand that often references basketball, hip hop, and sneaker culture in their gear. I've been a fan of their work in the past, especially this Jay-Z one meant for true Roc fans and a Jesus Shuttlesworth tee that pays adequate homage to one of my favorite films of all time, that this girl would love in a women's cut.
For the LeBron mania, they cranked out three tees to celebrate. The first tee directly quotes the words that broke Dan Gilbert, and arguably many NBA fan's hearts. I think the font is great and just big enough. While I don't agree with LeBron being a self-appointed "King" signing it King James is perfect in this instance.
LeBron announced earlier in the year that he would stop wearing his #23 jersey, out of a respect to his Airness, Michael Jordan. He picked #6, his team USA jersey, and as he moved to the Miami Heat, he plucked it from point guard Mario Chalmers. Sorry, kid but what BronBron wants, he gets! It uses the Heat current number font and the signature king's crown and the King James' Freshnes signature. This could be worn by a Heat fan or maybe by a non-LeBron fan poking fun at the King.
The last tee dedicated to BronBron is the most graphically complex of the bunch and plays on the branding that Nike has done with LeBron since he began his career. They used lions in one of the first LeBron photo shoots when he landed with Nike, and continue to use the lion's head image on his sneakers and other apparel. The King playing card with the ferocious lion looks great. While it wouldn't work well on women (flatten out the chest, makes a curvy figure look boxy), it would be a great item for a hardcore LeBron fan.
A local Miami-bred brand, Purple Heart Clothing, also jumped on the Heat trio bandwagon but they sided more with the established South Beach boy, Dwyane Wade. Purple Heart's aptly coined Miami-Wade County tee on ESPN. It's smart and clean, unlike what most people think of "Miami style". Also, the tee is available for ladies as well cashing in on the female basketball fan who doesn't always want to wear a jersey in sweltering Miami heat (oops, sorry).
The 3 Kings nickname is one of the simplest, but I'm not sure it will stay for the long in MIA. Will King James allow the others onto his trademarked court? We'll have to see. It's easier to say than the 3 Mi-Egos (cheesy) and I prefer the Miami Thrice, but we'll see. The use of the Heat font is clean and the script is tattoo inspired, something that the King and his court know a little about.
The last item is a limited edition tee strictly for D-Wade and his return to the team that won him an NBA championship ring. D-Wade didn't leave the Miami-Dade county waiting (I can't assume, but I don't think many Heat fans exist out of the 305 area code) and the first of July was an exciting day for the city. This tee commemorates the day that Wade put the Pat Riley action plan in motion, July 1st 2010 and Wade's #3. The tee, like the rest of the Purple Heart Clothing line, is clean and well-laid out. However, it would be difficult for females to wear (like the King James tee). Right now Miami is D-Wade's city, but will it stay that way? Will LeBron steal the spotlight. Who knows, but for now, thanks to a ring and likely, a name that rhymes so well, it's Wade's world.
The most recent BronBron tee comes from New York City based brand, Undrcrwn. Known as "The Brand for Champions" Undrcrwn's focusses on sports influenced gear. The brand enjoys a cult following amongst basketball bloggers and fans alike for their smart, humorous graphics and jokes that only a true hoops head understands. Despite that they don't offer a women's line, I decided to order my favourite Shawn Kemp inspired tee and turn it into a dress. Their newest drop is dedicated to the King's new court of Miami. It mimics the popular jersey t-shirts by replacing "Heat" with "King", mimicking LeBron's me-first mentality. It's simple, effective and clean. It can be worn by both LeBron fans or haters or even basketball fans. The shirt is available starting July 26th in the UNDRCRWN online store in a limited run. Whatever happened to playing for the name on the front instead of the back? Perhaps LeBron needs his brand on both sides.
Would you buy any of this pro-BronBron and Miami Thrice Heat gear? I'll feature the best of the anti-LeBron gear shortly, but since there is so much out there, it's taking awhile to compile the best and worst of it. Let me know what you think here or tweet me. I'm sure as the season progresses, so will the cheers, jeers and snarky apparel. Is it basketball season yet?
Umbro: Fit for Fashion and Football
On Friday June 11th, the 2010 FIFA World Cup kicks off for the first time in Africa. The Republic of South Africa is playing host to 31 teams representing nations from six continents. The teams bring hopes, hype, dreams, fans, and more merchandise than anyone can collect. Endorsement deals for official game kits and gear reach obscene dollar amounts and often go between major heavyweights, Adidas and Nike. The companies try to outdo each other with technology and flash and not fit but one FIFA outfitter took a different approach to jersey design for this tournament.
Umbro, a recent Nike subsidiary, is an English-born and bred sportswear and equipment company with a strong history of tailoring. For the design of England's official World Cup kit, Umbro brought on Aitor Throup, whose obsession with anatomy and minimalist functional design make him a perfect fit with Umbro. The philosophy when production began was that the jersey should move with the athlete's body instead of just around or against the body. The use of shoulder darts, tiny air holes and a stretchy base layer fabric on the underarms makes for a more streamlined and flexible fit. This is not your recreational jersey - this kit belongs to a new generation of what Umbro calls "innovative performance technology and a classic tailoring aesthetic".
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7a1oaVIMU4]
Umbro did a great job documenting the design and construction process from multiple angles including feedback from England's national team. It's clear that the footballer are happy to be involved in the process as every equipment edge can help them on the pitch.
Besides Umbro's longstanding contract with the England national football (soccer) team, they also design kits for Ireland and Northern Ireland's squads as well as premier league team Manchester City and the participants of the FA Cup. Since only England qualified for the 2010 World Cup, Umbro decided to honor the history of the tournament in their own special way. They created the World Champions Collection that feature modern interpretations of the classic jerseys of the seven nations that have hoisted the World Cup trophy: Brazil, Italy, France, Germany, Uruguay, England, and Argentina. The jerseys include their own crests designed by artists from all sorts of backgrounds from their home champion countries. The crests explain football history, culture and spirit and use the heralded stars that only true champions can own. Umbro use their company mandate of opposing qualities, like modern tailoring and the world game with local flavour, in designing the entire World Champions Collection apparel line which includes t-shirts, jerseys, zip ups and socks.
The requisite ad campaign continues to draw from Umbro's love of modernized vintage aesthetic but also in this case, very sexy.In the 1960's, the Umbro advertisements for jerseys featured models in long jerseys worn as mini-dresses: it was cute, cheeky and different.
To bring back the idea from the archives, Umbro recruited famous and beautiful WAG's from every country represented (wives and girlfriends of footballers) to model the jerseys with socks, and nothing else besides sultry hair and make up. The result looks sexy without being slutty or derogatory - what woman hasn't stolen her man's jersey to prance around the apartment in? Men love it and women have done it since those first advertisements came out in the 1960's. The blogs have lit up in excitement thanks to the behind the scenes video and the line is now synonymous with beautiful women.
The line is available in select retailers around the world, and I was lucky to attend their only Toronto release at GotStyle Menswear. The store is known as a destination for men who crave made to measure suits and fun, modern clothes that don't feel too intimidating or over priced - men who want to look good without looking like they're trying too hard. Umbro and GotStyle make a perfect pair and Melissa and her team did a great job displaying the collection.
Football memorabilia, photographs, video displays, sewing supplies, cute girls in short jerseys and even an England jersey signed by Fabio Capello (that you can win!) adorn the King West boutique's floor. I slipped on my team's jersey, France (allez les Bleus!), and unfortunately, it's too big for my small but curvy frame. However, they fit men off all sizes great with the minimal but sleek tailoring - GotStyle media master Reggie models the Italian jersey in size 38.
The details on the Umbro line are outstanding yet understated but are best seen in person. GotStyle carries the zip ups, jerseys, t-shirts as well as basic tees emblazoned with your country's name and colours. Prices range from $40 for tees to $150 for zip-ups . Definitely one of the most stylish and original ways to rally support for your World Cup squad. Well played, Umbro. Let the fashionable football games begin!
Li-Ning: Original Expansion
The sneaker game is nothing but competitive. Most companies that seem to have their own brand identities, are really just subdivisions of sportswear empires. Converse became infamous teaming up rivals and friends Magic Johnson and Larry Bird for the still relevant Weapon sneaker. But now, Nike owns Converse, turning it more into a fashion brand with collaborations with American designer John Varvatos. Nike moved Dwyane Wade from Converse to Jordan Brand and taking away his signature shoe but making him the new main pitchman for the yearly Jordan release - this season the Jordan 2010. Adidas owns Puma, among other brands, so needless to say, it's hard to be a new independent brand in the conglomerate market place.
Li-Ning Company Limited, is a major "sports brand enterprise" from China, that covers development, research, distribution, manufacturing, marketing, and of course, design. The company focusses on apparel, footwear, accessories and sports equipment. They've tapped athletes for sponsorship at home and abroad including the NBA market and are focussing on global expansion and market share.
Their list of athletes includes the effervescent Baron Davis. Not only is Baron a great point guard, but a film director, an actor and a well-known fashion plate in the NBA. When Boom Dizzle where's something new, others take notice. His signature shoe, the BD Doom came out this season too much buzz and apparently a lot of on court questions from fellow players.
The logo for the shoe is without question, Baron himself - the Beardman, sporting his trademark homeless-chic beard. The shoe came in five different colour ways, all available for sale - something that major brands don't always offer. LeBron James plays almost nightly in a different colour and style of his LeBron Air Max VII, but very few are available for sale. Baron's sneaker offered customization with a variety of eyelets and lacing options. It also came with a vinyl figure, picking up on the collectible toy market that is so synonymous with street and sneaker collecting culture. The Beardman is also adorned on apparel like varsity jackets and tees. While it wasn't the prettiest shoe, it certainly makes a statement - something the company needed to do to assert itself amongst the big sportswear dogs.
Li-Ning has taken this success and propelled it into building their first store front in Portland, Oregon, where the brand's headquarters are state side. The flagship opened in January 2010 - not far from Nike's compound in Beaverton, Oregon. With the opening of the store, Champs Sports announced that Li-Ning will be in 80 stores by this summer. Recently, Li-Ning expanded the Portland store and it now spans 2,200 square feet. The company wanted to display more than just their basketball lines and show a full variety of products, especially indoor sports. The showroom and retail store originally opened at 850 square Clearly, the company is doing something right.
To really compete with Nike, they need to continue their interesting shoes with viral campaigns, giving consumers something different. As a sneaker fiend, I'm over seeing every Jordan shoe bastardized into a new fusion model. Seeing something new, and not a company that lives in the past trying to capitalize on old classics shows true innovation and fresh ideas. It's exciting to see what Li-Ning can bring and if they can continue recruit not only talented but interesting athletes, like Baron Davis and also Shaquille O'Neal, they can create a niche in the massive market. Bring on the Beardman.
Sean John and the NFL Draft: Tailored for Performance
The draft for professional sports leagues are hype machines. College-age kids parade in front of media and NFL staff like prized dogs; it's the most public job interview on the planet. While all leagues have something offer fans and athletes, the pure pageantry of the NFL Draft cannot be beat.
The event takes place in Radio City Music Hall, the grandest of stages, in the biggest American city "where dreams are made of, there's nothing you can't do" - New York City. These draftees are the nation's focus, some at the peak of their careers: it's their Hollywood moment - there's even a red carpet. These young men will sign contracts that most of us couldn't even fathom, from the dollar signs to the endorsements to the restrictions and ownerships on their lives. It's fitting that companies and stylists are clamouring to dress these future stars before they're whisked from collegiate stars to NFL starters, as the old cliché goes, it truly is the first day of the rest of their lives.
In the past, draftees have sometimes come correct, showing their flair or perhaps a swift mother's hand. Other looked like they're wearing old ill-fitting church suits and some were just trying a little too hard to impress. As much I want to see these young men shine, bad draft day outfits are what keep blogs going. But dressing properly for the occasion is something that all new employees of the NFL should learn as it can help them in their public and private reputation for years down the line. If the NFL added a style boot camp to the combine, I would be in sports heaven.
One brand decided to try to do their own version of a style boot camp coupled with a strong branding initiative - Sean John. It was announced in Women's Wear Daily, that the man they call Diddy's fashion brand would be dressing a number of top NFL prospects for the draft. Sean Combs' defined his company's work with the draftees as a "pre-draft tailoring experience" where they would be given a fine suit and the use of an in-house tailor and stylist at Sean John's 5th Avenue flagship store. Conversion Sports and Entertainment ran the event which also included a chauffeured Rolls Royce Phantom and a bevy of other goodies. From my last count, the Sean John roster included seven players, all first round draft picks. Diddy didn't get to go number one, but he did get arguably the best player in the draft in Nebraska's Ndamukong Suh who went second overall to the Detroit Lions. Other players included Eric Berry (#5), Russell Okung (#6), Joe Haden (#7), CJ Spiller (#9), Derrick Morgan (#16), Demaryius Thomas (#22) and Dan Williams (#26).
This initiative is a great look for Sean John for a number of reasons. They're reaching out to one of the most powerful and flush demographics in the United Sates - professional athletes. These players will be soon cashing in on their talent (and not their universities) and building brand loyalty could really pay off in the long run. Also, this is one of the first occasions for these college players to receive a gift in a public, grand scale without having to worry about jeopardizing their amateur status. Once they declare for the draft, everything is fair game. Sean John swooped in by telling the players that they were rewarding their fine play with a fine suit and showing them a slice of the good life. It's like equating NFL talent with what I'm sure Sean John hopes is NFL style. The other athletes, who perhaps turned down Sean John's invite, see their fellow draftees chauffeured in luxury and catered to by a media mogul may think twice about going to Sean John in the future. Look at all the Louis Vuitton and Beats by Dre in dressing rooms - could the Sean John suit be the new coveted item? Maybe not, but the attired athletes in their brand will exist in the archives for ages.
Down the line, Sean John could also tap into these young men for advertising as using athletes as the model and muse seems to becoming the norm in men's fashion. Cristiano Ronaldo stripped down for Emporio Armani, Tiger Woods was a Tag Heuer man - could Suh be the face of Sean John big and tall? It's not a far-fetched idea. Sean John is doing what their CEO does so well - network to improve his net worth. Diddy would never have come this far without friends and powerful connections - from the Notorious B.I.G. to Anna Wintour, the man makes his Rolodex spin with his connections and hard work. It's only fitting that he models his clothing line with the same work ethic. Sean John also used their blog and Twitter to feature vignettes and behind the scenes photos on the athletes on their Sean John experience. In the age of social media where so many players are taking to Twitter and becoming more accessible than ever, it's fitting to have Sean John let the fans into equation, without even giving them an invite.
Some friends who are more sports fans than fashion mavens asked why would these athletes who will soon be making first round money be wearing a brand that is more known downtown than uptown - isn't Sean John a lesser quality product? Although I agree that some of Sean John's suits are not as fashion forward as brands like Z Zegna, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, J. Lindberg, or Dior Homme, but are more standard American sportswear. Players that bring size and strength on their frame are not easy to fit into skinny cut suits from a high fashion house even with a tailor's help. Also, like most major fashion brands, Sean John licenses their product to a manufacturer that specializes in suit construction. Peerless Clothing has a factory in Montreal that cranks out 25,000 suits a week for brands like Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, DKNY, Chaps, Ralph Lauren, and of course, Sean John - all New York base brands. When you buy their suits, you're really paying for the name and styling and not their manufacturing and customization.
Finally, as a stylist, it's a bit disappointing to see a big company taking over the styling for so many young players who could be potential clients. However, I applaud their use of a tailor on site and suit customization. Buying off the rack will rarely work any man - not just professional athletes. It's worth the time and effort to have a suit to tailored so it fits to perfection than just spending all your money on just a name. Fit is the most important thing to keep in mind while shopping and is accessible at every price and size. Sean John may not offer such luxury to all shoppers, but a personal shopper and a tailor can turn their suit into your suit with a few tips and a little work. And while fashion disasters on draft day are memorable, it's nice to see these young men looking ready for their next big step - the contract and then finally, the playing field. Good luck, young fellas.
NY Yankees and DKNY: A Match Made in Pinstripes
The fourth most valuable sports franchise in the world added to their endorsement arsenal once again. The New York Yankees concentrated on off-field performance for once to focus on fashion. As reported by Women's Wear Daily on Monday, Donna Karan New York Inc. (DKNY) agreed to a long-term, multifaceted investment deal with the New York Yankees. Full details of the partnership were not released as it is still in development but the first and most obvious step is a DKNY billboard above the outfield bullpen in right-centrefield. The billboard features DKNY's logo with the Manhattan skyline in the background, tieing in the heritage and branding of DKNY with the Bronx Bombers.
There are also advertisements for DKNY 2010 editorial campaign featuring male models in Yankee navy suits paired with blue ties and stark white shirts, but sadly, no pinstripes in sight. Shouldn't that be an obvious homage to the team? It's not a new initiative for a fashion brand to take interest in involving itself with professional sports. Many athletes, like Yankee captain Derek Jeter, have signature shoes and some even have their own clothing lines. Luxury accessories, like Tag Heuer watches have a variety of high-profile athletes endorsing their products in play and on billboards. Sean Avery, another New York sportsman, has interned at Vogue and now serves as a collaborator, pitchman and muse for the simple and chic menswear line Commonwealth Utilities. However, this is a landmark deal because it was one of the first times for a ready-to-wear fashion line to partner with an entire team and have such a visible presence in a sporting arena. It's not just providing the Yankees with suits, but integrating two brands from one city for both a partnership and profit.
It's a natural fit for both parties because athletes are role models and physical ideals to the large portion of the population. Athletes are high paid, in incredible shape and live at different standard than the rest of us - what average man wouldn't want to date Kate Hudson or have a garage full of the most exclusive cars on the planet? Now, not only can a man dress like his favourite athlete when he's playing sports or watching the game on his couch, but also when he's at a business meeting or taking on the town. A suit is staple in the modern man's wardrobe, and in the life of most New York men, and so are the Yankees. The advertisements feature male models but it would make sense to use the Yankee players themselves for editorial images, especially since many have modelling experience. Baseball players have height, great shape and strong shoulders that every designer would love to dress. The Yankee roster also features a diverse group of men, some young, some veterans and some very attractive that only men would want to be, but women would want to be with them. (I suggest Brett Gardner, Curtis Granderson and of course, Derek Sanderson Jeter). The conglomerate owner of Donna Karan International, LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy), is a global brand and one of the most powerful in the fashion and lifestyle market. The campaigns will circulate the New York state of mind and wardrobe worldwide, much like the Yankee games and fans.
DKNY and the Yankees may pride themselves on being brands that are synonymous with New York City but in reality, they are both worldwide franchises. New Yankee Stadium can hold 55,000 a game while YES Network (Yankees Entertainment and Sports Network) are accessible anywhere in the USA. Online streaming of games are available through YES, MLB.tv and not so legal channel surfing websites. DKNY clothing and accessories are available worldwide and are at an accessible price point. Not everyone many can afford a high fashion $1500 Dior Homme suit from an exclusive retailer. While DKNY's modern slim suit is accessible to more body types but also at $595 and available at national retailers, more markets and men with buying power can access it. The Yankees are a team with classic uniforms and are the chosen team of the masses, so DKNY can try to become the main purveyor of pinstripes for these legions of fans: a classically cool wardrobe for an iconic team.
All the extensive details of the deal including length are not disclosed but it seems that DKNY is ensuring that their slogan, "[DKNY] is not just about clothes. It's about a lifestyle" lives up to their agreement with the Yankees. Besides the advertisement directly in New Yankee Stadium and the branded editorial images, DKNY is ensuring that their brand is closely associated with the Bronx Bombers. The brand is the title sponsor of the Dugout Lounge, which is above the third baseline (left field - opposite from where the DKNY billboard stands). The lounge is specifically for suite holders, so fans who can equipped to spend in expensive attire. There will be food, drinks, live streams of games in high definition and DKNY runway and advertisement reels on rotation. DKNY and Yankees may reach out to the community using charitable programs and activities to appeal to consumers on all levels, not just those in the luxury suites at the stadium.
Bringing together timeless yet fresh fashion and America's past time is match made in sartorial heaven because of all the endorsement options available. In a global connected market it makes sense to reach out to multiple demographics in such a public way. The DKNY billboard above the bullpen will make its début in New Yankee Stadium on April 13th, the first home game of the Yankees' 2010 season. Donna Karan herself will attend batting practice, no word if DKNY will be making bats and gloves for its namesake to sport on the field.
High fives & booty taps,