Steal His Style: The Varsity Jacket
The retro renaissance is in full swing in the NBA. There are vintage inspired uniforms worn by the Golden State Warriors and Kobe's overbite is back with a vengeance and poor shot selection to match. Players are also taking vintage cues when it comes to their off-court wardrobe. For the past few seasons, menswear has become enamored with preppy styles and a cleaner version of 90's hip hop references. Gone are the baggy jeans, Rock and Republics and all iced-out everything. Now, wardrobes are full of snapbacks, Starter jackets and a bevy of Ralph Lauren.
The varsity jacket is a classic that can work in every man's wardrobe when worn appropriately. American streetwear brands are all offering their own branded take on the Letterman style. While luxury fashion houses like Rick Owens and Balmain mixed unexpected fabrics and fitted silhouettes for a modern interpretation on the classic, NBA stars have recently started designing their own personalized varsity jackets. Let's take a look at some of the style highlights when it comes to the varsity jacket and how you can put your own look together without the high price tag and endorsement deal.
When it comes to the most popular brand, Nike comes out on top. Nike Sportswear launched an aggressive marketing and design campaign this year focusing on their classic Destroyer jacket, their version of a varsity jacket. At events across the world, and at the Nike Sportswear flagship store in New York City, the blank canvas is customized with the help of Nike designers. They brought on cities, trend setters and their own roster of athletes to showcase the styling options. Nike's reigning king, LeBron James, was the first NBA athlete to début his custom Nike Destroyer jacket. He's been followed by burgeoning fashion designer Amar'e Stoudemire as well as his teammate, Chris Bosh.
When you're out hunting for the perfect varsity jacket, the key thing to keep in mind is shape and fit. Lay the jacket out and make sure the waistband, usually made of a stretchy material, isn't a lot smaller than the shoulder width. If the jacket makes a definite v-shape, it will likely look like that on you -- too big in the shoulders, too tight in the hips and could give you a gut that otherwise isn't there. Make sure the shoulders fit properly as many cheaper varsity jackets will have a tiny collar and huge shoulder, and not a more even distribution. Also, many jacket sleeves tend to widen or be very large in comparison to the body of the jacket. Remember that anything can be taken in, but likely not let out. It's better to size up, then tailor down to the get best fit.
In terms of materials, the Letterman style standard is a wool body with leather sleeves and optional iron-on or sewn-on letters. If you want the jacket to last, leather is a better option than vinyl sleeves as it is more breathable, meaning you won't have to dry clean it as often. The best places to look for a quality jacket are eBay or a local vintage store. It takes some digging, but you can find some really interesting or limited pieces. If you feel like getting creative, you can find letters, numbers or have a logo made to style a basic piece into something personal.
Here are a few of my picks for varsity jackets on budget, as a bespoke or limited edition Nike Destroyer jacket will cost you upwards for $2000. Layering thin materials in classic patterns and fabrics -- such as chambray and gingham -- with denim and boots is an easy way to look polished but casual from now until early spring.
Made in China: Steve Nash Leaves Nike for Luyou
It seems that this NBA season is a time of transition for Steve Nash. In late 2010, he announced that he was divorcing from his wife. He endured another separation with Amar'e Stoudemire leaving for the Knicks. And now, the two-time most valuable player is parting ways with Nike Basketball, after fifteen years, to sign with a Chinese athletics brand called Luyou. Why the sudden change at mid-season? Leaving major brands for start-ups is a new trend among veteran NBA players. Baron Davis, a noted fashion plate and friend of Nash, was one of the first to sign with an Asian-based company. Davis has his own signature shoe and his Beardman logo literally makes him the face of Li-Ning. Shaquille O'Neal is also part of Li-Ning. Kevin Garnett left adidas to join ATNA and became their marquee player, and not just a member of adidas' basketball "brotherhood".
Why the sudden trend? Are larger companies just not giving enough attention to the superstars? Is it about money? Or about growing their brand as players to ensure longevity once their playing days come to an end? Doing well the Asian market can translate to huge dollars in terms of jersey sales, revenue from signature shoes and marketability with other brands overseas that could continue into retirement. Players like Nash, Garnett and Shaq are so well-recognized in North America that it makes sense to to try to make headway in the world's largest economy. All three players signed with different upstart Chinese brands that are still based in China. Li-Ning opened a store in Portland, the hotbed of athletic gear, last year, but none of these brands have an NBA presence or endorsement roster like Nike, adidas or even Reebok. Why take the risk and leave Nike after so many years?
Sneaker website CounterKicks attained the following statement from Nike:
“We can confirm Steve Nash is no longer under contract with us. We had a great run with Steve and we wish him all the best. We’re extremely pleased to work with the NBA’s top players like Kobe, LeBron, Durant and Wade, who wear our basketball products, the most innovative in the game today.”
The statement seems like public relations speak for "good luck but we really don't need you". Nike has the largest roster and arguably the best talent with Kobe and LeBron but also new young stars like Blake Griffin, whose meager endorsement contract will likely bring a large payday and extension for Blake and huge hype for another signature shoe next season for Nike Basketball. Nash is taking a risk, but he becomes the face of a brand instead of competing with so many dynamic players.
It's curious that the Luyou, Li-Ning and ATNA logos all look reminiscent of the infamous Nike swoosh. At first glance, they look like something that you may find in a knockoff factory in China. Are the companies doing their own swoosh to be recognizable? Is it symbolism or just a copy cat tactic? Perhaps if their logo was something unique, like another Chinese basketball brand, Peak, they would stand out more in North American market. They run the risk of being grouped into the Nike knock off section on the sales floor. However, it does leave room for serious branding for the signature sneaker models, like with what Li-Ning did with Baron Davis. The production process of both the Asian brands and the American names like Nike are likely in the same or or neighbouring factories in China.The incredibly lucrative footwear counterfeit business has another brand to compete with and mimic.
An interesting factor in this recent trend is that both Baron Davis and Steve Nash are represented by BDA Sports Management, an agency known for exposing their clients to a worldwide fan base, especially in China. BDA has a strong international roster of players including Yao Ming. It's also somewhat common for BDA athletes to endorse companies that are new in the basketball footwear market like Brandon Jennings, who is Under Armour's only NBA athlete and at the forefront of all their marketing campaigns. He also signed the contract while playing overseas in Rome, instead of going to college. Under Armour is an American brand that instead of being based in Portland or China, is based in Baltimore, Maryland and is well-known for their apparel, instead of a company like Luyou, which is unknown to North American NBA fans. Nash is Canadian with international roots and is known as the pride of the province of British Columbia. Vancouver has a significant Asian population so that could translate to marketing opportunities, events with the Chinese community and of course, more sales.
What it will really come down for Nash is whether he can sell sneakers to both markets and if it performs well enough for Nash to play in. Luyou's brand slogan is "I think I can" so perhaps the mantra can pay off. Looking at their current offerings in China, they do not seem to have designed basketball sneakers in the past - most lifestyle and casual running shoes. At the announcement in Beijing, the brand had Nash call in videophone and announced that there would be both a charity playground project called "Nash's House" as well as a Nash logo competition. Luyou trotted out diverse models who wore new designs and preached a new vision and direction for the brand. While I do not fully trust the capabilities of Google translate, it seems that Luyou is re-launching in their own market with Nash as the centrepiece. It doesn't seem that there was any plans for worldwide expansion but perhaps that will come later this season or during the All-Star game in Los Angeles. Technically and aesthetically I'm curious to see what the brand comes up with as their other shoe designs look dated and uninspired. Would you wear Luyou shoes? Perhaps only time and availability in all markets will tell. For now, I'm sticking to my Nike's.
Brett Favre is comfortable in Wrangler...for now.
Brett Favre is the everyman athlete, who at the age of forty-one, seems to have accomplished all he can in the game of football. His off-field conduct is very average joe, but with the recent sexual harassment allegations and photographic evidence involving former Jets' sideline girl, Jenn Sterger, Favre is risking more than developing a bad reputation. Members of the media are comparing the alleged dirty text messages and voicemails to Tiger Woods' and his many mistresses and extramarital sexual conduct. Brett's alleged actions involve a colleague who felt uncomfortable with his advances, so the situation qualifies as sexual harassment, and not a consensual act. Is this Favre's only transgression as a professional athlete and will his legacy now be a dirty old man and not a gritty, iron man quarterback? Favre's image is of a simple, family man with a decent sense of humour in his endorsement deals (Wrangler, Mastercard, Sears, Prilosec) but will the public's perception of Favre change for the worst? Should he continue to shill brands in his Southern drawl despite allegations?
During Monday Night Football on October 11th, Favre reached another milestone in his career: touchdown number five hundred. The broadcast team tried to focus on his on-field performance and not make any ill-conceived purple helmet remarks. However, stateside it was hard for viewers to concentrate on Brett Favre's game as his television spots for Wrangler jeans were airing during almost every commercial break. Many thought it was a joke rather than bad timing. The one question all over Twtiter was whether Brett Favre will continue to stay comfortable in Wrangler indefinitely. Wranger presents itself as a company that's simple, hardworking and family friendly. A cheating quarterback leaving scandalous voicemails and sending comprising naked photos to a younger woman while his wife recovers from cancer is not the best example of a role model. But how many Wrangler customers find Favre's behaviour an issue? Does his target market care or can they relate? The coverage of Favre's photos is so overblown but even in a sports newsroom where I work, most of my co-workers didn't go looking for the pictures or wear Wrangler jeans. Also, since the photos could be of someone else, Favre is innocent until proven guilty.
- Brett Favre sporting his #4 in Packers' green and yellow.
The biggest determining factor in whether or not Favre stays in his Wrangler's is how he chooses to respond to the allegations and media enquiries. As of now, Wrangler representatives are staying on sidelines but issued the following statement to Women's Wear Daily, "We are following the story like everyone else. We are not making any major decisions on our marketing program until more information is available.” Wrangler is playing it smart. They don't want to risk ruining the image of their brand with the new spokesmodel and marketing campaign. Favre continues as the face of the brand, because he is a well-known face and all-American brand. He still wears his original Packers' colourway faded t-shirt in many of the advertisements as an example of how long he's been a Wrangler man.
- Once a jeans' man...always a jeans' man.
After the Monday Night Football game, Favre addressed the media, but made it clear he only wanted to discuss football. The best remedy for Favre is to apologize, move on and hopefully settle with both affected parties: his wife, Deana and Jenn Sterger. Whether or not he did it, he needs to make sure that he does not let it define his legacy by confronting it quickly, preferably quietly, and moving on. If Favre continues to ignore the situation, like Tiger did for so long, it will only add fuel to the fire and he has yet to confirm nor deny the allegations. Tiger's sponsors did not know what to believe, so the uncertainty of Tiger and his play in the PGA, outweighed the product placement. Tiger was insincere and overly guarded in his press conference and while I dread another press conference from Favre; a teary, short and apologetic press conference in his Southern drawl could win fans and sponsors back. Favre needs to highlight his best attributes as an athlete and a man by being heartfelt, passionate, simply spoken and of course, emotional. He is the everyman gifted athlete, and in the modern-day many people can relate to an "aww shucks" moment with a mobile phone. If Deana Favre stands by her man, that will only help the Brett brand.
- A moment in Favre infamy: the first retirement press conference.
I don't expect Wrangler will officially announce a decision until after Favre addresses the situation and NFL commissioner Roger Goddell weigh in. The safest thing for Wrangler to do would be to decrease their television budget starting now, then re-air or even re-shoot new commercials once the sexual harassment situation and the Deadspin daily posts die down. After all, no rumor lasts forever. One silver lining is that Crocs, the now infamous footwear that Favre sports in the mobile phone photos, recently reached profits of a billion dollars. Perhaps he can drum up a new endorsement deal with the company or even a mobile phone company if Wrangler abandons Favre. However, as long as the public believes that Grandpa Brett has learnt his lesson, his endorsement deals will continue to be a success.
Mariano Rivera Suits Back Up For Canali
Baseball, like fashion, is most important in the spring and fall. Spring marks the start of a new calendar year while fall brings a whole new set of layers, fabrics, trends and textures. It may not seem like the most natural fit, but there's a strong movement towards using athletes for more than just athletic endorsement deals but as models for fashion's biggest brands.
The Yankees lead the way as the baseball team with most ties to the fashion industry. Derek Jeter and Alex Rodriguez have graced the pages of GQ magazine as models, while DKNY signed a multifaceted deal with the squad this season. The latest man in pinstripes to enter the fashion game is Mariano Rivera. Arguably one of the greatest closers to ever play the game, Rivera modelled for Italian menswear brand Canali for their spring/summer 2010 print advertising campaign.
According to Women's Wear Daily, Rivera pose for Canali for the fall/winter 2010 advertisements as well. The photographs feature Rivera wearing, of course, trademark Yankee colours, including a navy pinstripe two-button suit, a double-breasted cashmere coat and a gray cashmere-blend jacket. The ensembles are classic, refined and rich - much like the franchise that Rivera has often carried on his forty-year old back. Rivera is the first professional athlete Canali has cast for an advertising campaign. When Canali announced Rivera has a new face of the company in March 2010, they preached a mantra of contemporary elegance on their website and the reasoning behind signing athlete, "he decision to choose a sports star as testimonial for the Spring Summer 2010 campaign accentuates the close ties between Canali and the star system, both in Hollywood and elsewhere, where elegance and excellence, style and performance are shared values.” Apparently the previous campaign was so well received that both parties eagerly agreed to work together for another season.
No word yet how long the deal will continue for, but I'm sure Canali will stay interested as long as Rivera keeps the Yankees in the headlines. The advertisements will run in national as well as regional magazines and newspapers. I have to wonder though, what does Mo wear pre-game, as DKNY is the official outfitter of the Yankees but he poses for Canali. Can one man wear both an American and Italian fashion brand without setting of a style war? It's hard to know, but it's safe to say that Mariano's set up with pinstripes for life, both on and off the field.