Steal His Style: The Varsity Jacket

The retro renaissance is in full swing in the NBA. There are vintage inspired uniforms worn by the Golden State Warriors and Kobe's overbite is back with a vengeance and poor shot selection to match. Players are also taking vintage cues when it comes to their off-court wardrobe. For the past few seasons, menswear has become enamored with preppy styles and a cleaner version of 90's hip hop references. Gone are the baggy jeans, Rock and Republics and all iced-out everything. Now, wardrobes are full of snapbacks, Starter jackets and a bevy of Ralph Lauren.

The varsity jacket is a classic that can work in every man's wardrobe when worn appropriately. American streetwear brands are all offering their own branded take on the Letterman style. While luxury fashion houses like Rick Owens and Balmain mixed unexpected fabrics and fitted silhouettes for a modern interpretation on the classic, NBA stars have recently started designing their own personalized varsity jackets. Let's take a look at some of the style highlights when it comes to the varsity jacket and how you can put your own look together without the high price tag and endorsement deal.

When it comes to the most popular brand, Nike comes out on top. Nike Sportswear launched an aggressive marketing and design campaign this year focusing on their classic Destroyer jacket, their version of a varsity jacket. At events across the world, and at the Nike Sportswear flagship store in New York City, the blank canvas is customized with the help of Nike designers. They brought on cities, trend setters and their own roster of athletes to showcase the styling options. Nike's reigning king, LeBron James, was the first NBA athlete to début his custom Nike Destroyer jacket. He's been followed by burgeoning fashion designer Amar'e Stoudemire as well as his teammate, Chris Bosh.

When you're out hunting for the perfect varsity jacket, the key thing to keep in mind is shape and fit. Lay the jacket out and make sure the waistband, usually made of a stretchy material, isn't a lot smaller than the shoulder width. If the jacket makes a definite v-shape, it will likely look like that on you -- too big in the shoulders, too tight in the hips and could give you a gut that otherwise isn't there. Make sure the shoulders fit properly as many cheaper varsity jackets will have a tiny collar and huge shoulder, and not a more even distribution. Also, many jacket sleeves tend to widen or be very large in comparison to the body of the jacket. Remember that anything can be taken in, but likely not let out. It's better to size up, then tailor down to the get best fit.

In terms of materials, the Letterman style standard is a wool body with leather sleeves and optional iron-on or sewn-on letters. If you want the jacket to last, leather is a better option than vinyl sleeves as it is more breathable, meaning you won't have to dry clean it as often. The best places to look for a quality jacket are eBay or a local vintage store. It takes some digging, but you can find some really interesting or limited pieces. If you feel like getting creative, you can find letters, numbers or have a logo made to style a basic piece into something personal.

Here are a few of my picks for varsity jackets on budget, as a bespoke or limited edition Nike Destroyer jacket will cost you upwards for $2000. Layering thin materials in classic patterns and fabrics -- such as chambray and gingham -- with denim and boots is an easy way to look polished but casual from now until early spring.

Made in China: Steve Nash Leaves Nike for Luyou

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It seems that this NBA season is a time of transition for Steve Nash. In late 2010, he announced that he was divorcing from his wife. He endured another separation with Amar'e Stoudemire leaving for the Knicks. And now, the two-time most valuable player is parting ways with Nike Basketball, after fifteen years, to sign with a Chinese athletics brand called Luyou. Why the sudden change at mid-season? Leaving major brands for start-ups is a new trend among veteran NBA players. Baron Davis, a noted fashion plate and friend of Nash, was one of the first to sign with an Asian-based company. Davis has his own signature shoe and his Beardman logo literally makes him the face of Li-Ning. Shaquille O'Neal is also part of Li-Ning. Kevin Garnett left adidas to join ATNA and became their marquee player, and not just a member of adidas' basketball "brotherhood".

Why the sudden trend? Are larger companies just not giving enough attention to the superstars? Is it about money? Or about growing their brand as players to ensure longevity once their playing days come to an end? Doing well the Asian market can translate to huge dollars in terms of jersey sales, revenue from signature shoes and marketability with other brands overseas that could continue into retirement. Players like Nash, Garnett and Shaq are so well-recognized in North America that it makes sense to to try to make headway in the world's largest economy. All three players signed with different upstart Chinese brands that are still based in China. Li-Ning opened a store in Portland, the hotbed of athletic gear, last year, but none of these brands have an NBA presence or endorsement roster like Nike, adidas or even Reebok. Why take the risk and leave Nike after so many years?

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Sneaker website CounterKicks attained the following statement from Nike:

“We can confirm Steve Nash is no longer under contract with us. We had a great run with Steve and we wish him all the best. We’re extremely pleased to work with the NBA’s top players like Kobe, LeBron, Durant and Wade, who wear our basketball products, the most innovative in the game today.”

The statement seems like public relations speak for  "good luck but we really don't need you". Nike has the largest roster and arguably the best talent with Kobe and LeBron but also new young stars like Blake Griffin, whose meager endorsement contract will likely bring a large payday and extension for Blake and huge hype for another signature shoe next season for Nike Basketball. Nash is taking a risk, but he becomes the face of a brand instead of competing with so many dynamic players.

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It's curious that the Luyou, Li-Ning and ATNA logos all look reminiscent of the infamous Nike swoosh. At first glance, they look like something that you may find in a knockoff factory in China. Are the companies doing their own swoosh to be recognizable? Is it symbolism or just a copy cat tactic? Perhaps if their logo was something unique, like another Chinese basketball brand, Peak, they would stand out more in North American market. They run the risk of being grouped into the Nike knock off section on the sales floor. However, it does leave room for serious branding for the signature sneaker models, like with what Li-Ning did with Baron Davis. The production process of both the Asian brands and the American names like Nike are likely in the same or or neighbouring factories in China.The incredibly lucrative footwear counterfeit business has another brand to compete with and mimic.

An interesting factor in this recent trend is that both Baron Davis and Steve Nash are represented by BDA Sports Management, an agency known for exposing their clients to a worldwide fan base, especially in China. BDA has a strong international roster of players including Yao Ming. It's also somewhat common for BDA athletes to endorse companies that are new in the basketball footwear market like Brandon Jennings, who is Under Armour's only NBA athlete and at the forefront of all their marketing campaigns. He also signed the contract while playing overseas in Rome, instead of going to college. Under Armour is an American brand that instead of being based in Portland or China, is based in Baltimore, Maryland and is well-known for their apparel, instead of a company like Luyou, which is unknown to North American NBA fans. Nash is Canadian with international roots and is known as the pride of the province of British Columbia. Vancouver has a significant Asian population so that could translate to marketing opportunities, events with the Chinese community and of course, more sales.

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What it will really come down for Nash is whether he can sell sneakers to both markets and if it performs well enough for Nash to play in. Luyou's brand slogan is "I think I can" so perhaps the mantra can pay off. Looking at their current offerings in China, they do not seem to have designed basketball sneakers in the past - most lifestyle and casual running shoes. At the announcement in Beijing, the brand had Nash call in videophone and announced that there would be both a charity playground project called "Nash's House" as well as a Nash logo competition. Luyou trotted out diverse models who wore new designs and preached a new vision and direction for the brand. While I do not fully trust the capabilities of Google translate, it seems that Luyou is re-launching in their own market with Nash as the centrepiece. It doesn't seem that there was any plans for worldwide expansion but perhaps that will come later this season or during the All-Star game in Los Angeles. Technically and aesthetically I'm curious to see what the brand comes up with as their other shoe designs look dated and uninspired. Would you wear Luyou shoes? Perhaps only time and availability in all markets will tell. For now, I'm sticking to my Nike's.

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The Oregon Ducks' New BCS Uniforms: Where's the Mallard?

Another Bowl game brings another new look for the Oregon Ducks, who've worn a variation on the Nike Pro Combat 2010 Uniform every game this season. Nike's American Football summit took place in Dallas yesterday and the company launched the updated Pro Combat System of Dress for the 2011 season and seemingly lucked out with the Ducks BCS Championship game against Heisman winner Cam Newton and the Auburn Tigers. There is no grander stage for Nike to showcase their newest duds for next season and get jersey geeks salivating. The Ducks will wear the new advanced garments for the big game, along with the Florida Gators and the Boise State Broncos, respectively.

The most surprising part about the Ducks' 2011 uniforms are not all the technological design updates like the further streamlining of the already fitted jerseys, the new Air Zoom Alpha Talon Cleat and the use of Nike's patent Flywire technology in a sports performance garment. But rather, compared to what Nike has produced for Oregon in the past, the BCS Championship uniform is rather underwhelming. From head to toe, the entire ensemble is a riff on what the Ducks have worn all season and sticks to the same colour palette. The jersey is mainly white with grey, black, neon and silver accents. The Duck wings are back again, this time in gun-metal grey on the shoulders. The thin Oregon font in grey on the chest and arm sleeves and is highlighted, naturally, in neon. The result is minimal, futuristic but also incredibly bright. Thank goodness Glendale is a closed dome stadium as natural light would make the game unwatchable - the Boise State Broncos in blue wearing on the smurf turf would be easier to watch.

The biggest complaint from Oregon aficionados is that the Ducks stray too far from their traditional team colour palette of green and yellow. I believe that team colours must  feature on the main body of the jersey and pants and the accessories should use the alternate colours to highlight the overall look. The accessories are by the far the best part of the kit and most interesting. The gloves use two shades of silver to form a diamond pattern while black duck wings and an Oregon O display when the wearer puts up their hands to form the "O" and look very sleek. The carbon fibre helmet mimics the gloves with the diamond pattern and the "O" is in the now trademark neon. It's a striking helmet, however I do miss the traditional mallard helmet that the Ducks wore earlier this season, which is a classic in sports design that fuses technology, design and references the duck perfectly.

It's interesting that the Ducks are back in neon, using a yellow that could look much more green in certain lights and on television. Paired with white jerseys, black and grey elements, and bright shoes designed to blur when in motion, the uniform will likely look dizzying and incredibly bright in high-definition. However, perhaps it will give them a competitive advantage against the more basic, traditionally styled Auburn jerseys offered by Under Armour.

While stylistically more advanced, it'd be nice to see Nike push the creative envelope and take the uniform to the next level with the 2011 Pro Combat System of dress design, using the advanced technology and original Ducks colours. Will the jerseys be re-imagined before the Ducks march on the field on Glendale? Don't be surprised if Nike and Phil Knight have something else up their fitted sleeves for BCS championship game on January 10th. Rumor has it that the alternate gun-metal grey (called anthracite in the Nike colour wheel) jerseys that are now available on GoDucks.com, will include pants and that the Ducks have an option to go with white jerseys and anthracite pants. Will the Ducks take in the Tigers in a two-tone, all white or completely different look? Without a doubt the Ducks stand out and literally wear their Nike Corporate link on their sleeves, but that doesn't mean they should eschew traditional completely. Can you go forward without looking back? Only time and Beaverton folks know for sure.

Note: A portion of this post appeared in Sophia Brugato's post for BeyondtheBeat.net entitled "Uniform Watch: Why Do We Care What the Oregon Ducks Wear?". Be sure to check it out, thanks for the style love, Sophia!

Style Seeker: Sneaker Cakes

An elite level athlete lives a privileged life thanks to their contribution to sports, media and mega marketing companies. They can afford almost anything their heart desires. So, what do you get for the NBA player that has everything? A recent trend for basketball birthdays is the sneaker cake. Players and their loved ones, are having their signature model recreated in delicious creations. Why not just wear your dominance of the game on your feet - players can literally have their cake and eat it too!

This past weekend, Brandon Jennings celebrated his 21st birthday in his adopted NBA hometown of Milwaukee with not only his new signature sneaker in cake form, but his favourite off-court shoe, too. His Under Armour Micro G Black Ice featured the Milwaukee Bucks colours, very proper considering where he held the event. The other shoes was a pair of studded Christian Louboutin sneakers that he often flaunts in his TwitPics. While the pastry chef didn't match his birthday kicks (Brandon's shoes were leopard print with gold studs), the lettering on the infamous Louboutin box and the "red bottom" sole is a key part of Louboutin shoe equation. The icing on the cake, so to speak, were the Under Armour logo cupcakes - you can't pay for that kind of product placement. Apparently, the cakes cost a cool $2000 dollars and were a gift from the Brandon co-host, Teyana Taylor. For half the price of the cake, you too can have a real pair of studded red bottom shoes.

LaLa Vazquez surprised her then fiancé (now husband and Knick, Net, still Denver Nugget), Carmelo Anthony with two edible versions of his Jordan Brand partnership. The first cake was a present from his son, Kiyan. It was a copy of his Air Jordan Future Sole Melo M6's in both his size and his son's mini-size. It was cute, a little cartoony but the perfect cake for a son to give his poppa with an adorable message of someday "growing into his shoes". The Melo M6 cake is one of the more accurate sneaker copies so far.

The second cake, a gift from LaLa, was a giant sugar insignia of the Melo #6 logo in red, gold and black. It was served flaming and full of sparklers for a grand birthday effect. Sugar icing is edible but difficult to eat, unlike a regular sneaker cake, but it's certainly a dramatic statement piece.

Sneaker heads and footwear designers alike are also replicating their favourite kicks in cake. Video director, designer, artist and kicks collaborator Va$htie was surprised earlier this year with a great cake copy of the infamous cement Jordan III. Do you think her cake had the most coveted "Nike" inscribed on the heel like the original drop?

One of my favorite sneaker cakes of recent years was a couple from Austin, Texas' Air Jordan I Groom's cake in the classic banned red colourway. It's not the best Jordan I cake around, but it's still obvious which shoe it's meant to represent. Nothing says I'll love you forever, like a classic pair of kicks that will never go out of style. I'm not sure why they even bothered with a traditional cake, but I'm sure it made for some interesting comments and questions come cake cutting time.

Would you or have you ever had a sneaker cake? I'd love a tasty replication of the Nike SB Pigeon Dunk (definitely vanilla filled) or my pair of Nike Air Max 90 Infrared's. For more footwear feasting that's cream filled, check out the piece that Sneaker Obsession did on the subject. I'm personally a huge fan of all the work they feature, but the Nike Tiffany Dunk and the Jordan Brand IV are the cakes I'd most like to eat though that's partly because those two shoes are on my most wanted list.

Merchandising The Decision: Miami Love

It was only three weeks ago that LeBron James let the world exhale and learn of his Decision that he would be taking his talents from his home state of Ohio, to the sunny shores of South Beach. The reaction ranged from bliss to confusion to down right rage. While LeBron strutted and celebrated with his old friends, and now new teammates Chris Bosh and Dwyane Wade in his Miami Heat jersey, licensed apparel from the franchise wasn't the only thing that commemorated the move. There has been plenty of defamatory, mad and jilted t-shirts to go along with the burning Cavaliers jerseys and Comic Sans letters from those drinking the James Haterade. But there are a few brands that are embracing the new but not yet officially nicknamed, Miami Heat trio.

The Freshnes, is a streetwear brand based in Long Beach that began in 2007. They're primarily a t-shirt brand that often references basketball, hip hop, and sneaker culture in their gear. I've been a fan of their work in the past, especially this Jay-Z one meant for true Roc fans and a Jesus Shuttlesworth tee that pays adequate homage to one of my favorite films of all time, that this girl would love in a women's cut.

For the LeBron mania, they cranked out three tees to celebrate. The first tee directly quotes the words that broke Dan Gilbert, and arguably many NBA fan's hearts. I think the font is great and just big enough. While I don't agree with LeBron being a self-appointed "King" signing it King James is perfect in this instance.

LeBron announced earlier in the year that he would stop wearing his #23 jersey, out of a respect to his Airness, Michael Jordan. He picked #6, his team USA jersey, and as he moved to the Miami Heat, he plucked it from point guard Mario Chalmers. Sorry, kid but what BronBron wants, he gets! It uses the Heat current number font and the signature king's crown and the King James' Freshnes signature. This could be worn by a Heat fan or maybe by a non-LeBron fan poking fun at the King.

The last tee dedicated to BronBron is the most graphically complex of the bunch and plays on the branding that Nike has done with LeBron since he began his  career. They used lions in one of the first LeBron photo shoots when he landed with Nike, and continue to use the lion's head image on his sneakers and other apparel. The King playing card with the ferocious lion looks great. While it wouldn't work well on women (flatten out the chest, makes a curvy figure look boxy), it would be a great item for a hardcore LeBron fan.

A local Miami-bred brand, Purple Heart Clothing, also jumped on the Heat trio bandwagon but they sided more with the established South Beach boy, Dwyane Wade. Purple Heart's aptly coined Miami-Wade County tee on ESPN. It's smart and clean, unlike what most people think of "Miami style". Also, the tee is available for ladies as well cashing in on the female basketball fan who doesn't always want to wear a jersey in sweltering Miami heat (oops, sorry).

The 3 Kings nickname is one of the simplest, but I'm not sure it will stay for the long in MIA. Will King James allow the others onto his trademarked court? We'll have to see. It's easier to say than the 3 Mi-Egos (cheesy) and I prefer the Miami Thrice, but we'll see. The use of the Heat font is clean and the script is tattoo inspired, something that the King and his court know a little about.

The last item is a limited edition tee strictly for D-Wade and his return to the team that won him an NBA championship ring. D-Wade didn't leave the Miami-Dade county waiting (I can't assume, but I don't think many Heat fans exist out of the 305 area code) and the first of July was an exciting day for the city. This tee commemorates the day that Wade put the Pat Riley action plan in motion, July 1st 2010 and Wade's #3. The tee, like the rest of the Purple Heart Clothing line, is clean and well-laid out. However, it would be difficult for females to wear (like the King James tee). Right now Miami is D-Wade's city, but will it stay that way? Will LeBron steal the spotlight. Who knows, but for now, thanks to a ring and likely, a name that rhymes so well, it's Wade's world.

The most recent BronBron tee comes from New York City based brand, Undrcrwn. Known as "The Brand for Champions" Undrcrwn's focusses on sports influenced gear. The brand enjoys a cult following amongst basketball bloggers and fans alike for their smart, humorous graphics and jokes that only a true hoops head understands. Despite that they don't offer a women's line, I decided to order my favourite Shawn Kemp inspired tee and turn it into a dress. Their newest drop is dedicated to the King's new court of Miami. It mimics the popular jersey t-shirts by replacing "Heat" with "King", mimicking LeBron's me-first mentality. It's simple, effective and clean. It can be worn by both LeBron fans or haters or even basketball fans. The shirt is available starting July 26th in the UNDRCRWN online store in a limited run. Whatever happened to playing for the name on the front instead of the back? Perhaps LeBron needs his brand on both sides.

Would you buy any of this pro-BronBron and Miami Thrice Heat gear? I'll feature the best of the anti-LeBron gear shortly, but since there is so much out there, it's taking awhile to compile the best and worst of it. Let me know what you think here or tweet me. I'm sure as the season progresses, so will the cheers, jeers and snarky apparel. Is it basketball season yet?